Letter to Comdt. & Mrs Hayes 5-12-53

Elder Dempster Lines

ON BOARD

“Tamele”

5^th Dec. 1953

Comdt. & Mrs Hayes,

6 Calderwood Road,
Drumcondra,
Dublin,
Eire (Ireland)

My dear Comdt. & Mrs Hayes,

I hope you are both well. We are still chug-chugging along here, we're along by the Gold Coast somewhere just now and savin' your presence we're all just literally dripping – the only consolation is we're all drips together. Perhaps you've read my letter home and so I hope repetition doesn't bore you.

Here's a new bit however, you being bible thumpers, ahem! will see the joke – We have bath-boys you know who fill up the bath with hot or cold salt water (I'll have cold please) and clean them when we've finished. One of the Sisters spotted my bath-boy having a good screw (with himself screwed into a knot) at me through the keyhole so they called me “Susanna” (and the Ancients). Now I plug the keyhole as it was a little disconcerting. The Sister excused him saying he only wanted to see if I was white all the way!

We had a rough time in the Bay of Biscay but since then we're enjoying the trip – I'm as brown as a berry now and there is no such thing as waiting for the next two clouds to roll by to get the next bit of sun. There's not a cloud in the sky and to-day there is a dense haze of heat on the ocean. The danger is that you don't notice till you come in what a terrible roasting you've got.

We passed the Canaries on Fri 27^th and the Chief Mate sent for me to come on the Bridge and get a good look through his binoculars. I could see all the principal buildings including the Casino quite closely. We got our first real taste of tropical heat about Dakar where we called in for refuelling on Mon 30th. We had a marvellous day at Freetown, Sierra Leone, on Weds and then we got our first foot on African soil and it was a great thrill to scout around the town with all its local colour just as seen in pictures and letters. You'd have fallen for Juta Beach a few miles outside the town, to which we went by two taxis (terrible coloured drivers). The beach is down some stone steps and is sheltered off by Banana and Paw-Paw trees. We had a swim there and for the first time in my life plunged right in – no 'ohs' or 'ahs' for the cold. I think it beats Ballyloughane! And I'd forgive Sierra Leone anything for having a beach like that.

We get to Lagos tomorrow D.V, Sunday 6^th, and stay there six or seven days, then its two days trip to Port Harcourt, then an overland trip of about 150 miles to Afikpo. It will probably be broken at the other missions on the way up.

My bathing costume cut a great dash on Juta Beach and was much admired. I also use it for sunbathing with my shorts over it.

Write soon please.

Lots of love,

Emily

Letter 4-12-53 (Mrs and Miss Davey, Belfast)

Elder Demster Lines

ON BOARD

“Tamele”

Fri 4^th Dec, 1953

Mrs and Miss Davey,

108 Antrim Road,

Belfast,

Ireland.

My dear Mary and Lallie,

I hope you are both well. We're still chug-chugging along here and liking it quite a bit. Wow, since we left the Bay of Biscay where there was a bit of a gale and we got shaken up a bit in every sense.

We hit the tropical heat about Dakar on Mon 30^th and all we've heard about it is quite true. 'Savin' your presence', as the fellow told us, you lie on one side in bed and it trickles down, then you turn over your other side and you feel it trickling back again. The only thing is we're all drips together but they say its not so bad at sea, it's when we land!

However, its pretty good fun really so far. I've got a smashing tan – it's very hard to take it in small doses – a very short time in the sun is enough to do damage without your noticing how strong it really is at the time. I'll tell you a good joke I didn't tell me Ma – We have coloured boys for doing everything on board including bath boys who get our baths ready and clean up. There are six Fathers (5 Holy Ghost + one Kiltegan) and three MM sisters with me and they're terrific gas. Anyhow one of the sisters spotted my bath-boy having a great screw through the keyhole at me – So they called me “Suzanna” (and the Ancients) – look up your bible – no, I'm sure you don't need to. They excused him because he probably wanted to see if I was all white.

You get an awful land the first day you find the bath is of salt water (hot and cold) and no suds! But there's a bath of fresh water left in for lathering up in. In the dining room one has to be very careful when ordering. Sister Ruth ordered her figs first and cornflakes next, all in one breath, so she got the two mixed up on one plate and was just lucky she hadn't added the next course (fish!)

We had a great day in Freetown on Weds 7^th and just called for refuelling to Dakar on Mon 30th. We hope to get to Lagos on Sunday 13^th Dec, staying there until about the 24^th and arriving Port Harcourt about Sat 12^th or Sun 13th. I am missing siesta now its 2.30pm. We're having boat drill at 4.0 so I'll have to get a little snooze. Our table personnel is/are invited to cocktails with the captain tonight, so I must look my best, ahem!

Lots of love to you both,

Emily

Ship's Diary of Dr. Emily P. Timoney

 

Ship's Diary of  Dr. Emily P. Timoney 

(On board 'Tamele' 18th Nov. 1953 to Fri 18th Dec. 1953)

(Written on back of photo by EPT)  

"Dr. Emily Twomey on boat to Nigeria.  River Niger 1953. 

 "TAMELE" - name of boat from Liverpool.  "Tarqua" was sistership."

+

12^th Nov. '53

Left North Wall Dublin at 8pm on the M.V. Munster. Went on deck for awhile with Sr. Ruth, Sr. Muiredal, Sr. Ambrose, Mr. & Mrs Devlin and Mrs Cormack. Beautifully calm.  

20^th Nov. 1953

Slept fitfully. Arrived in Liverpool 5.45am. Called at 6.30am, checked luggage + were taken by the waiting cars of Fr. McHugh and ? to Devlins, passing through the 3 mile long toll tunnel which runs under the Mersey from Liverpool to Birkenhead.

Went to mass at a nearby convent of the S.C.G.'s said by Fr McHugh. Returned to breakfast at Devlins. Went to see the Carmelite Sisters, Mother Prioress (?) and Sr. Amanda came to the grill (?) and promised to pray for us. Had lunch at the Seacombe Ferry Hotel in L'pool – very nice. Mr. Gill Worsley had also joined us. Went to look for Sr. Ruth's missing case which was located, then went on shopping spree to buy Mr. Cormack a new hat. Went to the Hospital and Convent of Canonesses of St. Augustine (“leap over the garden wall”) and had tea there – very pleasant. Bed in Devlins and confession.

(Written on back of photo by Ept)

"Mr. + Mrs Devlin where we stayed in Liverpool the night before sailing to Nigeria.  Emily, Sr. Felicity, Sr. Muiredech. Photo taken by Sr. Ruth (all Medical Missionaries of Mary)"


21^st Nov

Called 7.0 Mass 7.30. Went to Docks at 9.15am. Tickets, baggage etc. checked. Went by special bus to ship's side noting that as there were about 35 on the bus they must be about the full complement of our fellow travellers, also noting with first glimpse at the Tamele* that she looked rather smaller than we had imagined her. Went aboard and found our cabins – each in a 3 bunk cabin, my fellow bunkers seem friendly. Had coffee and then it was announced we could get landing passes and go ashore until 6.00pm. We went ashore, had lunch and went to see the Church of the English Martyrs at Wallasey which was a peculiar but pleasant feat of architecture by F. X. Velarde of Liverpool. Then went to see another church of his creation, the Church of Our Lady of Pity at Greasby. Then “Home James” to Mrs Devlin for tea when she thought that she had already said goodbye. 

We got back at the hour appointed and got our first taste of ship's fare at dinner. All the clergy – 5 Holy Ghost Fathers and Fr. Mullaly, the 3 sisters and myself at one table with an unoccupied seat on my left, later discovered to be reserved for the 2^nd Officer of the Ship (the First Mate).

The Fathers are good fun and we seem to be having the only comic relief in 4 otherwise sobersided tables. A trot around the deck and still no sign of the Tamele pulling out (she was due to go at 20.00hrs) until 10.30pm when I was asleep – smooth night.

22^nd Nov. Sunday

Up at 6.45am. Mass at 7.0 in the lounge. Breakfast 5 course (2 taken) at 8.30am. A trot around the deck in raincoats because of the spray. Reading in the lounge and trying to keep our minds off the “rolling”.

Lunch – nothing of note – Bed from 2-4pm,. Reading in lounge until 5.30pm. The ship's doctor – Reggie Armitage - came in and chatted, then brought me to inspect the medical facilities aboard – very good, lovely instruments.

Dinner – 1) soup 2) macaroni 3) entre 4) main 5) sweet 6) ice-cream 7) coffee, cheese & biscuits 8) fruit :

(1, 4, 7 & 8 taken by me) – survived.

Went on deck later – dark with beautiful moon gleaming across a streak of water – all above and below gives terrific impression of a fevered rush. The clouds rushing endlessly past the moon, the sea tossing up foam and racing past in the same direction. Bed. Fairly rough night.

23^rd Nov – Monday

Called at 6.40am. Bath in hot salt H2O. No suds! Mass at 7.00am. Three of the Fathers unable to say mass. We are now just entering the Bay of Biscay and it is getting rougher and rougher. 

The steward called to say he'd take me to see if I could find my lost trunk which was marked “Cabin” but must have been put in the baggage now. He said it was rather difficult to get at as we could not use the orthodox companionway – that I might not be able to get down. However, off we went to a very steep (perpendicular) ladder, as I luckily did not discover until later a huge drop below into the depths of the ship. We went a couple of feet down the ladder then stepped into a passage at Rt. Ls {right angles} to it. It was very dark and I was afraid the door would clang behind us and almost turned back a few times but was glad I didn't because I located my trunk alright in the baggage room. It is too rough to bring it up to-day. 

My cabin companion Merula O'Leary is having a bad time today and is practically confined to bed. Sr. Ambrose also retired this am. It is very hard to sit on a chair. Sr. Muiredech fell, chain and all, in the lounge and we are rolling around at an awful rate. Position is everything!   Lunchtime again and its quite a spectacle to see the white coated coloured boys announcing meals with a big gong as they march around the ship. They serve at meals also and get our baths ready etc.

Bed from 2-5pm. Very v. rough and difficult to dress. We're going to play Housey Housey tonight 8.15pm. Lost about 10/-. Bed.

Tues 24^th Nov.
Still tossing about a lot. Mass. Feeling a bit ill. The others all feel well to-day. Got my trunk up & unpacked. The Chief Mate put in his first appearance at our table for lunch - seems shy, says we got out of the Bay of Biscay about noon today. Hopes to make Dakar about Fri, D.V.




Went to bed after lunch from 3-5. Feeling better – all of us. Played pontoon until dinner. A few runs around the deck and more pontoon. Bed.

Wed. 25^th Nov

Chairs out on deck today. Mild day. The sea looks nice and calm. 'Stewed' until lunchtime. Inspected the Engine room with the 1^st Mate after Lunch. Siesta. Horse-racing – lost all. Christmas cake for 6 in the Doctor's Den. Bed. Passed Gibraltar today 322 miles.

Thurs. 26^th Nov
5 days out – storm at sea. Sr Ruth took coloured cine-film. Warmer wind but still in Winter woolies. Very angry grey sea. Ship rolling furiously. Spray drenching the deck. We're somewhere off the North Coast of Africa – Roughly between Madeira Islands and Casablanca. All feeling seedy.


Fri. 27^th Nov 6^th day

Canary Islands sighted on the starboard side at about 8am. Sun has come up and but for a mild wind it would be very warm. Sat reading on deckchair in the sun. At 12.15am we were directly abreast of the islands and I got a message to go up on the bridge. The Capt. let me have a look through his glasses at the islands. They have ranges of high rocky mountains. On the northern-most peak is a powerful lighthouse which sheds its light for 30 miles on a clear night, 3 miles on a bad night. 

We played Canasta. Tea and toast for 4 in the Doctor's Den and bed. The Chief Mate gave me a Track Chart of the journey at lunch time.

Sat. 28^th 7^th day out

The weather is v. peculiar. Dull day, no bright sun, warm. Sea and sky are same grey colour, scarcely a ripple on the sea and a grey sky sans cloud sans vivre. The temperature is just pleasant with a slight breeze blowing from the south. We are off Lis de Oro just above the level of Cape Blanco. 

The Chief Mate has loaned me a book on the parts we're passing through. Sr. Ambrose caught the Bath Boy 'gazing' through the key-hole of the bathroom. Moral: 'Stuff the keyhole while in the bath!”

Played whist – I got 2^nd prize, a tin of sweets. The C.M. showed Sr. Ruth and I the inner workings of the bridge and ship in general.

Sun 29^th First taste of tropics

Warm morning. Mass at 7.0am; and at 10 formally. Played Quoits. Sun has got quite strong and is as hot as the hottest day at home now. Sunbathed for an hour. Saw flying fish and porpoises. Got letters ready for posting in Dakar to-morrow. Chief Mate sent us down half of his Christmas cake and we had a little bedtime party in cabin 2 (sisters). We all got a shock when the Fathers came in to dinner in sports coats and ties. The Sisters changed into their lighter habits also.

Monday 30^th 3.30am.

Wakened by the hooters – Lights of Dakar beaming in a friendly semi-circle. Trotting to porthole every hour or so to see if we had arrived in port which we did about 6.0am. Dakar is a very large port with a good oiling up system at the docks and a picturesque little island called Ile de Gorée on the port side. We left Dakar after refuelling and posting letters. Very warm day, sunsuits. Housey at night. Rocked in bed.

Tues. 1^st Dec 10 days at sea


Sweltering hot day. Locusts flying on to the ship. Schools of porpoises putting on a wonderful sideshow – leaping high up out of the water and diving gracefully with a long surface dive: The sea looks beautiful to-day. My tan is coming up gradually with short spells of sunbathing. Came into Freetown, Sierra Leone at about 10.30pm, anchored off shore, beautiful view of twinkling lights in hills and lowland.

Weds 2^nd 6.30am
Dense haze over the sea – Freetown looks like a fairyland in the dawn. The local boys came on board to unload the top layer of cargo and to clean the decks by rubbing with stones. The little divers in their canoes come out to the ship and shout for some work to do – diving deep into the sea for coins and then deftly retrieving their canoes. The marketing canoes with displays of wares drawn alongside lend a nice piece of local colour to the picture. Trotting round the ship anchored off here, one sees activity everywhere, unloading of cargo and scrubbing of decks with stones by rows of natives on their knees.

At 10am the launch came and took us ashore to tread our first bit of African soil. The wide very old stone steps (about 30) leading up from the jetty looked most picturesque with the natives sitting, brightly clad, in groups selling their wares or swinging nonchalantly along with one or even two baskets of oranges on their heads. We called at the Convent (Sister Ambrose, Sister Ignatius) of Sisters of Cl? And at the H.G. Mission (Frs Clerkin and Byrne). We 'did' the stops and returned to the ship. After lunch we set out for Juta Beach in two taxis. Fr. Gilmore being ex-major was the open sesame for us to this beautiful beach at the Haffi Camp. Stone steps lead down to the beach which is bordered and delightfully sheltered by banana trees, flowering shrubs and Paw-Paw trees. We had a swim there – a sun bathe and then up the steps to a nice afternoon tea at the outdoor Haafi Cafe.


A delightful run home along the corkscrew road down the mountains with an excellent view of the city down below.  Fr. Clerkin came aboard for dinner. I examined a patient in consultation with the ships doc. Left Freetown at 10.30pm.

Thurs 3^rd Dec.
Recitation on the top deck. Very warm.

Thurs 4^th Dec.
Got sunburned – very sore. Our table invited aloft to drinks with the Captain. Sr. Ruth insisted on putting my hair up for the occasion. We played whist after dinner.


Sat 5^th Dec 14^th day

Warmest day yet. Wrote a lot of letters. Horseracing after dinner


Sun 6^th

Arrived outside Lagos as 2.15pm. Anchored and waiting or a pilot. Came up to Lagos and anchored in the pool quite near the shore about 5.30pm. The Lagos passengers got off by launch.


Mon 7^th

Went ashore at 9.30am on launch. Visited Kingsway stores and immigration office. After lunch five of us went by canoe to shore and then in two taxis to Victoria beach. Had wonderful time surf-riding. After dinner went to a real dive of a cinema (open-air). We were the only Europeans there (2/11 tickets made up in 2 @ ½ + 1 at full each). Music roaring, everyone chattering and screaming. Launch back at 11.00pm. (Film - Corona)

Tue 8th Dec

Went to town in the am. Called at medical registration office. Then ice drinks at K.W. Restaurant. After lunch, ship launch with about 15-20 (passengers and crew) took us to Tarkwa Beach about 5 miles away. Just getting up at the jetty I slipped in – very deep, pulled out by 3^rd Mate (Mr Wild?). I'd dropped my bathing costume, towel and topée. Both latter found immediately – consternation over the top, all started diving for them. Found some distance from the scene, accidentally by Fr. Grogan. Surfing on to the second nearby beach. Saw lots of lizards. Drinks in the Haafi Cafe. Home.

{EA Note: topee - another name for pith helmet from Hindi topī hat, worn by EPT in the picture above}


Chief Mate very annoyed at the ducking incident. After dinner hour of night life (in Paulines Cabin - Doc, Merula, 3^rd Officer), then Rex Cinema. Very high class one (all seats 3/11) only Europeans. Pleasant. Supper.

Weds 9^th
Shopping Tour of a few night clubs – Savoy Roof Garden (Chez Peters), Bristol Hotel.

Thurs 10^th
Futile hunt for shoes for Sr. Ruth; Hers had been stolen from the ship. Went to Rex Cinema ("Champagne for Caesar"). My topée pinched.

Fri 11^th
Went to Roadhouse Cinema about 8 miles out on way to Acega. No Europeans, floor, garden, hotel, cinema – lights cut out for ¾ hour then no sound, eventually we saw a soundless “Sinbad the Sailor” - good laugh.

Sat 12^th
Hairdresser at Kingsway at 10.30. Rushed back to get ready for lunch at the Murphys – Beautiful flat on top of the Nigerian Tobacco Co. Ltd. ofices. First really African meal – very nice curry and Nigerian meringue.

Ten present for lunch – Sylvia and James, Fr. Gilmore, 2 O'Mahonys (Brian) Mike, Frank, Vinny, self. Then rush back to ship to get ready for a tennis tournament - Frank and James won for Nigerian version Gold Coast. Then dinner and Ikoyi Club. Great excitement with Merula and I dressing, minute inspection by the Fathers, Sisters and Chief Mate. Bottle of Champagne and supper during the dance. Very enjoyable.

Sun 13^th
WB Robinson (passenger to Lagos) came and brought us for a drive to Aceja and Agege – Walked around the markets and came back Bush road. Called at the airport.

pm. Fr. Gilmore had Sylvia and James to dinner. They went home soon after. I went with Merula, Ted and Reg to Ikoyi Club Concerto recital then on to Harthills – First impression of a Lagos European home.

Mon 14^th Dec.
Set sail at 4.00 pm for P.H.(Port Harcourt).  Two propeller blades damaged crossing the bar. Came about at 6.30pm and anchored off Lagos again.

Tues 15^th Dec.

Awaiting instructions surmising as to whether we'll be stuck here for Christmas. News that we're moving off.  Set sail again on one engine at 2.30pm. At 5.30pm, crawling very slowly.

                                                                          

(Written on back of photo by EPT)

"Chief Mate with a Baracuda just caught between Lagos & Port Harcourt"

Photo taken by EPT

Weds 16^th Dec.

Sailed again at 5.30pm on one engine at about 6 knots.

Thurs 17^th Dec.

Arrived in PH. Met by Sisters from Anua and Godfrey. Stayed the night in Anua. Left for Afikpo next morning.

*To view the ship "Tamele": *http://www.elderdempster.me.uk/shippage%202.html